Vicarious living has become more and more important to me, and it becomes extra special when I hear from friends like ex-Laredoan Sara Puig Laas, now near Austin , who just took a trip to Paris . And she fulfilled my request for her to tell us about her adventure. She flew from Austin to Houston a few weeks back, on a Thursday and then non-stop to France on an all-night flight, arriving Friday morning. Because of the time difference of seven hours, she slept as much as possible on the plane; then she stayed up all day to avoid jet lag. All actions a sign of a seasoned traveler, of course.
She tells us: I fell in love in late October. With Paris . What a fascinating city! It was the kind of trip I love best–living like a local. No tour buses or schedules. I stayed with my niece, Marta Mueller-Guicciardini, and her two teenagers in their apartment on Rue de Universite. During the day Marta is a Senior Financial Analyst at the International Finance Corporation of the World Bank, while Lorenzo rides his motor scooter to classes at the Sorbonne and Ottavia is a senior at L’Ecole Francais. Except for the weekend and a holiday, I explored Paris on my own.
Sara continues: Under Marta’s guidance, I quickly learned it isn’t true that the French are rude and anti-American. They are delightfully friendly and helpful as long as you start any and all conversations with “Bon Jour”–just as we were taught as children to always say, “Buenos dias” when shopping in Laredo .
Marta’s apartment is centrally located in the lovely section of the city designed by architect Baron Georges-Eugene Haussmann between 1853 and 1870 under a commission from Napoleon III. It was Haussmann who gave Paris its wide boulevards, expansive parks, and lovely bridges across the Seine River . He also designed the adjoining acres of six-story buildings that exude an air of serenity, with their metal mansard roofs, walls of stone, and massive wooden doors, even as their street-level shops teem with activity. The next four floors contain apartments with tall windows that make it great fun to watch people below go about their daily lives. The top floor provided small garrets–traditionally for use by servants, or by artists and writers who could afford only the cheapest rent. The pleasant vistas make it a joy to walk as much as possible in Paris , checking out both the shops and the gardens as you go.
And walk I did, five to ten miles a day, although I rarely passed a boulangerie, or bakery, without popping in for a “pain au chocolat.” From Marta’s apartment within view of L’Assemble National, I walked a few blocks to a bridge across the Seine . A few more steps and strolling through the Gardens of the Tuileries, pictured in so many impressionist paintings, and on to the Louvre. The centuries come together at the Louvre, aptly exemplified by the classic stone buildings with a central courtyard dominated by I.M. Pei’s class pyramid. The museum trove of treasures spans the centuries, too, from ancient Greek sculptures to DaVinci’s Mona Lisa to contemporary modern art.
Sara continues: Another day, I traipsed to the Eiffel Tower on “our side” of the Seine . I was tempted not to wait in the series of long lines to buy a ticket, to ride the train to the level atop the four “legs,” and then to take the elevator to the top. The process took two hours, but I decided to stick it out in memory of my grandparents, Laredoans Valentin and Bruna Ortiz Puig, who had also ascended the tower when they went to Paris, together with his brother an her sister, Baldomero and Emilia Ortiz Puig, for the Exposition Universelle (World’s Fair) of 1900. My trip to the Eiffel Tower was 111 years later, on 11-1-11, so I decided not to ignore the lineup of numbers.
Signs in several languages warned visitors to beware of pickpockets, and I wondered if that were the case in my grandparents’ day as well. But now, as in 1900, the view from the top of the 81-story tower absolutely takes your breath away. And in the evening, as Lorenzo and I walked the family Golden Retriever, the lights that cover the tower could be seen for miles. I had not known that they twinkle for the first ten minutes after the hour, and watching the dancing lights proved a special treat, indeed.
On Saturday and again on Thursday, I tagged along with Maria as she shopped for fresh vegetables and meals at the open-air market. The portable stalls open at 7 a.m. and must be packed up and gone by 1 p.m., so we quickly chose from the incredibly fresh selections of salad greens, vegetables, fish, meals, mushrooms, cheeses, herbs, flowers and more. No wonder French food is famous around the world! Later we were on the bus to the famous Paris Flea Market, where a stew of offerings awaited us, from vintage clothing to antique furniture, from chandeliers to jewelry to tacky knick-knacks. A nearby brasserie provided a respite later with a marvelous salad of tomato, fresh basil, and marvelous mozzarella–to my surprise, made from bison milk from Italy . Bisons? In Italy ? Delightful surprises everywhere…
Saturday evening we were off to the symphony to hear an orchestra from Leipzig, Germany, play works by Beethoven. On Tuesday, a ballet drew us to the Opera Garnier. Built in 1869, it’s both a wonderful venue and a trip back in time, as you wonder which notables may have sat in the gilded box seats, gazed at the chandelier suitable for the Phantom of the Opera, and admired the huge circular mural by Marc Chagall that surrounded the chandelier. The ballet costumes, by Parisian fashion designer Christian LeCroix, did not take a back seat to the ambience and were memorable in their beauty.
On Halloween Day, my great-niece Ottavia was on fall break from school, so the two of us had a different kind of adventure. We took the subway–Le Metro, in Paris –to a costume shop in another part of town. We met a school friend there, and shared a hilarious hour as they tried on outfits for a party that night. Ottavia decided to go as Wonder Woman, an appropriate costume in my view, since Ottavia and her brother are fluent in French, English, Italian,
Turkish (after living three years in Istanbul), and Spanish. Marta speaks those five languages and Russian as well, as her work with the IFC often takes her to Moscow and the Republic of Georgia . In that state of mind, it made perfect sense to treat the teens to lunch at a Japanese bistro in the neighborhood.
Sara aptly concludes: You cannot go anywhere in the world these days without finding traces of Laredo ; this trip reinforced that rule. Marta and I enjoyed an exhibit of photographs by ex-Laredoan George O.Jackson, Jr., at France L’Amerique Latine Agency. The featured pictures came from his vast collection of photos of Mexican indigenous festivals, but I had not seen them at the Smithsonian or San Antonio Museum of Art exhibits. Beautiful and dramatic work, as always, and I was delighted to introduce a fine example of Laredo ‘s creative talent to my niece. So many places I didn’t go– Paris is a temptress, and will not show you everything in a week, which was the length of my stay. But even a peek at France ‘s City of Light brought pleasure to last a lifetime.
Many thanks to dear friend Sarita for sharing with us that marvelous travelogue! But it’s time to go to knitting…in my training as a teacher, I remember learnIng that repetitive activity was good for students. Look what’s happened with the repetitive action involved in knitting: A Maryland lady’s contribution to society has taken her to teach a weekly class in knitting in a prison for men. And the demand for her class has soared. The reason is simple: the repetitveness gives the prisoners a calming effect! Her program is proving to be an invaluable rehabilitative tool at the Maryland prison’s Pre-Release Unit in Jessup. Lynn Zwerling, the teacher, is a retiree who believes in the effect on prisoners of the clicking needles and the repetitive motions. She started knitting after retiring from selling cars, and she became an evangelist. And that’s how she got to try her idea: she wanted to teach men in jail how to knit. Not a social worker or an educator, she believed in what the process of knitting provides–setting goals, completing a project, and giving to someone else. The knitting instruction program is so popular with prisoners that men beg to get in her class. There’s actually a waiting list! The warden notes that there’s lower rates of violence among the prisoners who knit. So the lesson for today: if you’re feeling hostile, try knitting!
Let’s close the year with a great note from Laredo ‘s gift to Hollywood , Julia Vera, who just came back to LA after spending a month in Laredo . She tells us: Laredo is amazing. There’s always something exciting going on. LULAC had its annual Tejano Achievers Award, and Mrs. Estela Kramer was one of the honorees, and she invited me as her guest. Then I ran to TAMIU to attend the Laredo Theater Guild fundraiser. When Ronnie Ramirez sang “The Hills Are Alive with the Sound of Music,” I was moved to tears. Then Joe Arciniega sang “The Unreachable Dream” and for the first time in my life I understood the lyrics of that powerful song’s message. The venue was fully attended, and it was very moving to see so many Laredoans show their love for the arts. My next highlight during my Laredo visit was the Martin/Nixon game. The dedication of the new Shirley Field was the big reason for the attendance of so many past football players. It was truly impressive and inspiring when they paraded onto the field holding up the year they fought to defend the goal. So many friends were there, and we sat together: Elsa Pena Herbeck and husband Walter, Carlota Guerra Pina, Priscilla Garza, Elias and Rosa Mendiola, JJ Gomes, Carlos Mejia, and Anabel Uribe Hall. Indeed, once a Tiger, always a Tiger! It was a great break for me, since I was in Laredo to build an RV park in Asherton. The small towns around Laredo are booming with the oil/gas discoveries. I loved the project. Hard work. Many trips carrying material, but it was all worth it.
And on that note, with great wishes for a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to everyone, it’s time for, as Norma Adamo says: TAN TAN !
